Biondi-Santi: A Benchmark for Brunello di Montalcino
A night at Primo sipping a world class Tuscan red wine. Enough said.
Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino
Varieties: Sangiovese Grosso
Region: Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy
Producer: Biondi-Santi
Costs: price varies, most $200 plus
Biondi-Santi: A Benchmark For Brunello di Montalcino
“Our heroes were working out of their kitchen!”. The intro to a song by CRIMEAPPLE, and one that has been on repeat a lot recently. But for tonight, these lyrics took on a personal, and probably different, meaning for myself. I was lucky enough to attend a wine event at Primo Restaurant in Rockland. The wine in question you ask? Well, there were a handful to be fair. But if I am here to talk about a wine that overshadows the likes of Ca’Marcanda and various Gaja estates, then it must be something special. Maybe overshadows is the wrong word, since these wines were all special in their own right. In fact, I got to understand firsthand why these wines acquire the historic and cult reputation they have. Thus, we get to the wine in question: a Brunello di Montalcino from the folks at Biondi-Santi. For those who have been following along, you would know that nothing gets me more excited than the crossover between history and a good wine. With the Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino, you have history in spades. Folks, this estate literally created the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG in Italy. They are the originators!
So, the question then becomes: have the originators been able to keep the reputation alive? Has it fallen by the wayside, or is this a world class wine? YES. It absolutely is a world class wine. Plus, the interesting thing is that there are indications that Biondi-Santi is open minded and will adapt certain ‘modern’ techniques. This is one of those rare wines that blends tradition, elegance, and an energy that cannot be mistaken for anything other than total care and appreciation of the grapes. A quick note on the grapes and aging methods in order for my subsequent ramblings to make a bit more sense. One of the massive ‘selling’ points that I would include for this wine is the specific Sangiovese clones they have access to for the winemaking. The founder of Biondi-Santi, Ferrucio, provided a template for further generations of winemakers in the Montalcino region. A perfect clone of Sangiovese, the BBS11 Grosso - literally labeled after the Biondi-Santi estate (BS11), is planted in galestro soil. The galestro soil is made up of schisty, flaky marl. This type of soil is perfect for this subregion in Tuscany.
Remember folks, we are talking about southeast Montalcino here. We are in the south of Tuscany, and we’re going just a touch more south. The small geographical shifts are what ultimately express themselves so differently in the finished product. This is why we can get a Chianti, a Vino Nobile, and a Brunello and have very different expressions of the ‘same’ grape. Lastly, let’s discuss the aging methods because I am really itching to get to this wine. As any classic Brunello, you are going to see some time in oak here. In fact, pretty extended time in oak, because a trademark of Biondi-Santi is to hold it back for another year compared to some other producers. But, here is where things get interesting. The Sangiovese is fermented in cement vats with only indigenous yeasts. I really feel as though this is one of the key choices that made the wine so accessible this early on in its lifecycle. The cement literally smooths over the rough edges of the Sangiovese. For a young Brunello, things were pretty fleshed out and loose in the tannin department. I mean, a 2019 Brunello di Montalcino should be pretty BIG. BOOM. I’m here. You’re there. Well, we are here, so let’s talk about this wine.
It’s big, it’s graceful, and it exceeded every expectation I had for a wine of this caliber. You get this depth of fruit and herbs immediately on the nose. A very ripe dark cherry, this sort of Mediterranean underbrush, and wild blackberries. It’s very wild, yet they manage to tame it as well. You feel like you’re walking through the fields of Montalcino, but there is also someone there to hold your hand. There’s not much, if anything, wasted on this wine. No flabbiness. Because even for an ethereal wine, there is a good presence of acidity that keeps everything tight and direct. It might not be as direct as an arrow, but it’s not like someone is just slinging rocks everywhere. I think this is what one would call an ‘elegant’ wine. Now, we can get to the palate. The wine itself is very layered. Fruit, herbs, and spices. Pretty much in that order, although with time open in the bottle it really began to blend beautifully. The cherries follow the nose to the palate, but the berry aspect definitely becomes more concentrated. The herbs are the classic hallmarks of a Sangiovese from this region: basil, sage, and this beautifully wild tomato leaf earthy aspect. It would be like if I went to my little vegetable garden and rubbed my fingers over the new budding leaves on my tomato plant. Lastly, the time spent in oak imparts some beautifully integrated baking spice notes. You get a touch of fresh orange zest, nutmeg, and a slight oxidized note. Again, we are only talking about ONE wine here. One wine that is able to encapsulate all of this. People collect Brunellos and Sangiovese based wines for a reason. I may be partial to Piedmont, but you can bet your bottom dollar that I will be stocking up on some Brunellos now.
On the note of Brunellos, and maybe for the finishing point, let me just say this. Before I was able to taste the Biondi-Santi tonight, I had a glass of Brunello di Montalcino from Pieve Santa Restituta. Pieve Santa Restituta is Gaja’s estate in Montalcino. Gaja is a world class producer from the Barbaresco region of Piedmont who has now expanded to other regions of Italy. The Pieve Santa Restituta is a remarkable wine. It’s brooding, serious, and rich. Not overwhelming in any aspect, but there is an edge to it that would please some Napa Cabernet enjoyers. My personal experience or thought is that it may play more to an international audience. Bordeaux and Napa Valley come to mind. But, the Biondi-Santi one was different. This thing was a Brunello di Montalcino through and through. I was going to say that you had to go searching for the subtleties a tad more, but I actually think those subtleties ultimately present themselves to the drinker. The wine comes to you. It envelops you. If you are looking to sit there, decant a nice wine, and enjoy some conversation with friends, then the Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo is a real treat worth exploring. You can get lost in all the layers, but the wine itself will pull you back out. It will say “HEY! I’m right here. Forget about the orange zest and your thoughts about the Renaissance. I’m cherry and rose, come back to me”. Plus, the cool thing is that it is 13.5%. Just for comparison purposes, the Brunello from Pieve Santa Restituta is 14.5%. But at this point I am just splitting atoms folks. Talking minor details, and enjoying every bit of it. These were all incredible wines. This was an incredible night. Biondi-Santi is an incredible producer. Very rarely can you trace the establishment and proclamation of a zone to one man, and one estate. That is the case with Montalcino, Ferrucio, and Biondi-Santi. This is a historic wine that I feel tickled to have been able to taste. Maybe I am trying to downplay it instead of gushing, because the truth is that I am only able to experience a wine like this because of important people in my life. Incredible owners who allow me to go to an event like this, a rep for even thinking of including me, and the importer who was able to answer any questions I had. Again folks, wine by its nature is a communal thing. Heck, ask the Greeks, ask the Romans, even ask your boy ALEX! Well, now the wine is talking. Till another time. And lastly, please, if you are thinking of splurging for your cellar or an event, check out the Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino from Biondi-Santi. You would not be disappointed.
So glad you had a great evening and it lived up to all of the hopes you had for it!!