Celebrating Barbaresco with Olek Bondonio

I celebrate the day, get some new summer reading material, and do a deep dive on all things Barbaresco.

Olek Bondonio Barbaresco Starderi

Varieties: Nebbiolo

Region: Barberesco, Piedmont, Italy

Producer: Olek Bondonio

Costs: $90-$100

Missive: Celebrating Barbaresco with Olek Bondonio

I had to treat myself. A good day that had me spiraling (this time in a positive sense) so I ultimately had to open a nice wine. I have an upcoming Piedmont wine class which got the wheels turning in my head. My personal collection is chock full of Piedmont reds since those were the wines that first got me into the practice of cellaring. Nebbiolo, Barbera, dare I even say a good Dolcetto from a producer like Voerzio? Well, today I had to go back to my roots. Nebbia, the fog that sweeps over the hills of Piedmont, ultimately indicating prime harvest time. But even from there you have so many options. Do you go for a classic Barolo? Maybe you opt for a Langhe Nebbiolo from a new project like Cascina Penna-Currado. However, I decided to go for it - in every sense of that statement. Today was a testament towards enjoying the moment and finding happiness in this unpredictable time in the world. Ultimately, I decided to open a wine that I had meant to cellar for an extended period. Thus, we get to the Barbaresco Starderi from the genius of Olek Bondonio.

A wine that could see decades in the cellar instead got a decent decant for enjoying tonight. Wow, oh wow, this was just an expressive and regal wine in every sense. The color alone transports you to the Kingdom of Savoy, and you can be a monarch in your own right. Again, even if it was Barolo that was referred to as the ‘wine of kings’, you will transform into a blue-blooded patrician while drinking this wine. Not that Olek envisions this wine as uppity, or out of reach, but the price point and subsequent experience definitely transport you to another realm. I would go so far as to say this is not a wine meant for Tuesday night drinking. No, instead, this is a special wine that you will want to open on a night when you seek to celebrate something. Or maybe you are spiraling, thinking about all that has happened to you, the good and the bad, but mostly the good. I am sure that it is all coming through on your end. Alas, I wanted to open a bottle of wine to treat myself. To seeking out fun experiences, being intentional with my time, and celebrating little victories here and there. This thing is going to come in waves. I am a couple glasses deep, belly full from a nicely cooked filet mignon, and ready to burn the midnight oil. You are going to get a treat, an experience, which may ultimately end up in some true ramblings.

Look at that COLOR! Filet made a guest appearance.

As always with these now, I feel as though I need to start with a description of the wine for folks solely interested in that. Heck, this is Wine Missives for goodness sake. So what do we have here? What is in the glass tonight? This is a 100% Nebbiolo from the Barbaresco region of Piedmont. As a general statement, it would seem that Barbaresco wines are much more fresh and perfumed than their counterparts in Barolo. Of course there are a broad range of Barolos as well, ranging from your La Morra examples to your more structured Serralunga wines. But there is something so ripe, aromatic, and gentle about this Barbaresco. It is not lacking in flavor, the tannins are indeed there, and the finish is long - BUT, the thing is also light on its feet, hits all the red fruit and floral notes one would expect, and offers more than that as it opens. This is a serious wine. On the nose, you get these beautiful crushed, ripe red fruit notes. Red cherry galore, with a touch of strawberries and Mediterranean herbs. The fruit is quickly taken over by a whole bunch of rose petals. It really does seem as though you are walking through a field of fresh roses, with some grass, and basil as well. But this is where things take a turn, in the best sense possible. You then get hit with this beautiful graphite, sort of iron, note out of the wine. Already on the nose you get a great showing of fruit, floral, and earth.

Let’s transition from the nose to the palate now. I have to note that this wine is a prime example of what I love about unfiltered wines. There is a serious textural component here that you have to experience for yourself. Gritty, coarse, and fine. It’s the age old tale of cleaning up nicely. There’s a ruggedness to it that comes from the fermentation in concrete, but the grape itself, combined with time in oak, and the added unfiltered aspect is really compelling. Similarities from the nose are also present when you are tasting. There is a slightly more concentrated aspect to the palate, however. If the nose is very ripe, fresh, almost crushed and gravelly, the palate is more cooked. This beautiful raspberry mint jelly note is sort of what I came up with… after the head was buzzing around. There are more deep, or oxidative, notes like licorice and orange peel as well. The dual experience you get from the nose and the palate should warrant the price tag alone. Having tasted the wine in its youth, there is now a piece of me that would like to grab a few more for aging. Scientific research we could call it. There are many ways that you could justify expanding your wine cellar and the financial costs associated with doing so. Investment aspect, personal interest, and so many others. Maybe I am just getting ahead of myself to warrant any purchase of cellar finds in the near future.

The wine of the night featured with a book of the day.

Olek Bondonio comes from a family with rooted history in the Piedmont region. One of his ancestors was a founding member of the now famed Produttori del Barbaresco. Olek is somewhat new himself in the world of wine, however, with his first vintage being in 2005. Since then, he has established himself as a real champion in the Barbaresco region. Access to incredible vineyards, working them personally, and minimal intervention in the cellar results in soulful wines. This particular Starderi is intriguing, somewhat restrained, yet compelling in a lot of aspects. It’s not as brooding or over extracted as some other producers I could think of for comparison's sake. Indeed, the oak comes through very minimally on this wine. There are no rich vanilla, cinnamon, or baking spice notes. Instead, there are some real clear arguments to be made for terroir when it comes to a wine like this one. The Starderi is really ripe, notes of fresh fruit picked right from the plant, resulting from the fact that it is a less exposed site in Barbaresco. It is also the northernmost site in this region. The ripe fruit is combined with an acidity and chalkiness that reminds one of the land. From all accounts, it seems as though this is what Olek is opting for in his wines. Minimal, relative, contact with the skins and no use of toasted oak, and presence of concrete are all good indications. Things that make me slither to the edge of my seat in my current condition.

And in my current condition I shall just do a quick ramble on the day and wine. I had the chance to go to the Big Chicken Barn in order to seek out some summer reading material. Lacking in the fiction department, I opted for some history and organized crime books. You just know that there will be some upcoming write-ups pairing a book with a wine. Lots to look forward to here folks, and maybe that’s why I was so excited to do this writeup tonight. I seem ready to shake off a staleness and melancholy funk. An upcoming harvest in Tuscany, day trips in the summer, and so much more. But only time shall tell. The wine is definitely talking and I had a good night with this bottle. Alas, I will probably end up spiraling a mere 24 hours from now. But tonight, TONIGHT, I shall enjoy myself because the present is just that - a gift. I think I saw that from a meme that a family member reposted on Facebook, if that gives you an idea of where my brain is at. We’re digging deep here folks which is always a good sign to hang up the towel. You know about the wine, which I strongly encourage you to go grab one for yourself. You have heard about my day of book hunting, filet mignon, and a captivating Barbaresco. What more could there be to discuss… until the next time! Cheers.