We're Talking Roots
I drink a 2018 Alsatian Riesling as I make my first German Rouladen.
Domaine G. Metz Grand Cru Muenchberg Riesling 2018
Varieties: Riesling
Region: Alsace, France
Producer: Domaine G. Metz
Costs: $35-$45
Missive: We’re Talking Roots
There is a feeling that comes over you after a long holiday. A day dedicated to socializing, celebrating, and good food paired with stellar wines. When most activities are over by 5 P.M. or so, one is often left wondering what to do with the last four to five hours of the night. Should I finish what is left of this wine from the meal? Absolutely yes. Okay, well, now that I am working through this bottle, I need to relay all this to you. You, reading this now. My confidant in all things culinary and wine. Today was more or less a day of exploring one’s roots, tapping into all the generations that came before.
There is nothing like a full day off when it comes to preparing a meal. To know that you have nowhere else to be besides that kitchen. I wanted to cook a new recipe, something from my family’s history. Enter the German Rouladen. Succulent, flaky pieces of beef rolled with mustard, pickles, onion, and bacon. It’s salty, briney, fatty, and smoky all at once. This was my first crack at this recipe, and I am extremely pleased with how it turned out. You pair something like this with rich mashed potatoes, roasted carrots, and a pea salad. The crowd will be pleased. But, folks, that is only half the battle. We have food covered, but where does that leave us when it comes to wine? I wanted to present both a red and white option. Let me rip off this band-aid: neither one of them is “technically” German. Alright, put down your pitchforks, please.
I’m thinking roots today specifically, but I can’t deny the wine lover side of me. When it comes to stunning examples of German Pinot Noir, my cellar is somewhat limited. Even as I type that sentence, you know I have a new rabbit hole to go down. Siri, add an assorted case of Pfalz Pinot Noir to my grocery list, please. But let’s get serious, and let’s get back to what wine WAS opened tonight. Since I’m not doing a real deep dive on the red, I’ll get that one out of the way first.
I opted for a Beaujolais cru, which, if you have been following along, should be no surprise. This one, in particular, was from Domaine Mee Godard and represented the Corcelette site. Stunning, absolutely precise example of what serious Gamay can amount to. That is a wine that could be around for the long haul if you don’t drink all of them first. It is simply delicious, yet serious and contemplative. Folks, if this stunning example of a red wine isn’t the main focus, you can imagine the caliber of wine we’re talking about.
The star of the show tonight is the 2018 Riesling Grand Cru Muenchberg from Domaine G. Metz. That’s right. An eight-year-old Riesling from a favorable site in Alsace. That’s why I said there’s “technically” no German wines tonight. There’s at least a predominantly German grape variety being highlighted. The complexity and richness of this wine allowed it to stand up to the beef main course. This particular wine, combined with the briny gravy poured over the tender beef strips, was simply a match made in heaven. Now, with the backstory out of the way, we can get into the nitty-gritty of the wine.
To clarify, this is an eight-year-old Riesling. The first note I have in my iPhone for this wine is repeated exactly as follows: “Eating a tropical dessert outside after a fresh rain in the spring”. This wine is all minerality, combined with fully ripe pitted fruits. Think creamy pineapple upside-down cake. Think orange marmalade on fresh toasted biscuits. It’s round but somehow linear at the same time. This wine undergoes nearly a year of aging on its lees in barrels, YET it remains alive and kicking. It certainly does not cross the threshold of overbearing, dull, flat, bleh, nothing of the sort. The subtle saline & mineral nature of the wine walks hand in hand with the onions & pickles rolled in beef.
I’ve let this wine come to room temp, and I am finishing my last glass after it’s been open for about 5 hours. This thing is about as aromatically intense and present as you are going to get. Sitting before you now, drinking this as I write this missive, this wine has morphed into a much more honey, honeysuckle, and nutty side. The fruit is there, hanging on, but it is really quite honey-focused. I feel like Winnie-the-Pooh with both my hands in pots of honey right now. It’s a pretty distinct, honey-covered green-apple note. You get that, and this seductive toasted macadamia nut component. This is a beautiful wine. This is a fantastic example of what Riesling can become if you just keep your hands off the damn thing.
Now we have caught up to the present moment. We are going to take this present moment to go to the past. As I said, this day was a celebration of roots. A history of a family, or a culture. In very short, I think I have been focused on the idea of setting roots, and that has led me to contemplate all before me. It’s not lost on me that I am here drinking this aged Riesling right now. There had to have been many things that had to go right, and they did, resulting in me sitting here writing this article. People involved that I have never met and will never get the chance to thank. “Thank you for letting me exist!” I scream into the void. How could I begin to think about growing my own roots, setting down my own tangible contribution to this world, without understanding my own roots?
When you work in an Italian grocery store, it’s hard not to get jealous of these darn Italians. That is such a switch from how Italians were initially received in this country circa the late 19th century, but it’s true. The food, the communal ties, the wine, it’s just so great. I might mess around and change my name to Stoffelini or something. All joking aside, I was sort of reflecting on that today. Why am I not particularly attuned to my own family history or culture? Well, comparing the intricacies of cultures could be its own research paper, and one must tread lightly to avoid overgeneralizing.
However, with that being said, you’re talking to a guy who is knee-deep in a travel book focusing on various cultures. For example, most people would agree that Italians have a strong, knit family structure and tend to be community-oriented. Both sides of my family are German, and I don’t think we have ever been late for a single thing in our lives. Pretty much thirty minutes early to every event I can recall.
Ahh, to set one’s own roots down. I am feeling optimistic for this year and the point I am at for my future plans. I was talking to my friend Costello about some general thoughts for the future, and I was sending him a post about these old-time pubs across England. Almost like a historical bar crawl. He made the point that it’s almost impossible to recreate something like that and make it feel genuine. My point is that you create something of your own ingenuity now, and then your descendants two hundred years from now can reap the benefits of something with roots. A thing that encapsulates tradition. A tradition of excellence, related to all things food, wine, agriculture, and experience.
You provide the conditions for those roots to grow on their own. Then, your kids walk into this beautiful thing where they can pour vertical lineups of Barolos alongside rabbit ragu topped with truffles. However, now I am giving away too many specifics. The wine has loosened the lips. Loose lips sink ships! This ship is something akin to the USS Constitution. I refuse to be sunk! Although you cannot be Icarus either. You must float the middle ground, and to wrap it all up, that is exactly what this wine did. It hit the middle ground in every category you could check boxes for. Get an aged Riesling and hit it with a German Rouladen. It provides the circumstances for a night you will not forget.
Sounds delish! Glad you had a wonderful gathering.
I think you need to include recipes for the meal as well... just sayin'